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Doodle-ology
(or Karen's FAQ's)
- Is early desexing safe?
- What is the best way to house train my doodle?
- What are the generally accepted standards of
Labradoodles?
- What are the coat types of the Labradoodle?
Early
Spay and Neuter - very helpful information.
-- Below reprinted with permission from Nancy C. from
the Tegan Park Chat Page "Generally, early desexing makes sure that the hormones have not started changes in the body which later can exacerbate diseases which may occur despite (later) desexing, such as mammary tumors, which are one of the most common risks facing female dogs, and prostate cancer in males. Puppies are routinely desexed at the age of 6 or 8 weeks in the shelters to avoid unwanted pups later, and they found that the early desexing is safe and has no harmful effects, and that the puppies are even more attentive to the love and affection of the human owners.
According to one article, the one instance where you might want to delay spaying is if your female is less than 6 months old and is already showing signs of dominance aggression. In ONE study, these types of females became more aggressive after spay surgery, but vets aren't sure why. (From Canine Care, Your Dog, May 1999, p.20-21)
My early-neutered (now 19-mo. old) puppy does not feel the need to mark his territory on every tree or chair leg; rather he leans forward (I call it the "Napoleon Stance") to urinate and sometimes partially lifts his back leg... not to mark, just because he needs to "go". He is very non-aggressive, as opposed to my friend's dog who was neutered at 6 months old and sprays every chance he gets to mark his territory (and is quite territorial).
Older puppies become aware of the opposite sex and males especially put all of their energy into wanting to know about all the females in the neighborhood, but a neutered male will give you the attention he would have focused on finding a female.
As far as developing properly, I couldn't say if Joey cares what size his genitals are, since he doesn't have much of the equipment anymore, and he happily doesn't care. I haven't met a happier, friendlier dog, and although I hear that is common for the labradoodle breed, I think his happy attitude is due to his attention within the family. I can't imagine what other part of his body would be affected by losing the testicular hormones early. He does have a pretty big nose, though.
I'm sure you can find more info from the vet or even the humane society. Good luck, and let us know your results!"
If you would like more information on desexing,
check out this great article http://www.bestfriends.org/nmhp/printresources/pdf/juvenilespayneuter.pdf
This is a great basic article:
http://www.petorphans.com/earlyneut.html
Here is an article on the history:
History of Spay/Neuter Surgery
In the 1940’s and 1950’s, veterinarians had primitive anesthetics,
monitoring equipments, and surgical tools. Anesthetics were not terribly safe,
especially for young animals; sophisticated surgical instruments that are now
used to find a tiny uterus did not exist. Veterinarians were mainly men,
working with horses and cattle — heavy, physical work. They had big hands,
and had to find that uterus with their fingers. Since a uterus is bigger and
much easier to find after an estrus or after having a litter, the advice of
waiting until after the first estrus or after a litter began and persists
decades later. Often the practitioner selected the spay/neuter age of the
animals based on his convenience and what was appropriate to his skill and
equipment.
Now jump forward to the 1960’s. It is discovered that the incidence of
mammary cancer (which is four times higher in intact bitches than in human
women) can be reduced by over 96.4%, if we spay before the first estrus. So
the veterinary profession begins teaching this, and now with better equipment,
better drugs, and safer methodologies, veterinarians began to spay before the
first estrus. Determining when the first estrus begins presents problems,
however. It differs among large dogs (12-14 months), small dogs (around 6
months), and cats (as early as 4-5 months). Since it's too confusing to tell
owners different ages for different size dogs (and how do you guess on the
mixed breeds) six months becomes the standard, with the goal being to neuter
the majority of dogs before their first estrus. Although this practice is not
based on objective scientific data (and is too late for many cats), for
decades this is what veterinarians are taught.
As for cats, they received little attention and respect until the 1980s.
Veterinarians were trained, for the most part, to treat them like little dogs
and the 6-month standard was applied, with no thought to the fact that many
cats became pregnant at 4 and 5 months of age. The 6-month standard simply
evolved. It was not based in research or particular scientific reason.
At this time, pediatric spay/neuter is the best way to stem the staggering pet
overpopulation and allows us to combat the single largest cause of death in
companion animals: homelessness due to overpopulation. Regardless of the
industry, with the continual and sometimes rapid technological improvements
and trends, some will be on the leading edge, some in the middle, and others
left behind. This is no different for the animal industry. In over 100 years
of adopting animals in the United States, the overpopulation problem continues
to increase. It is not possible to adopt our way out of the overpopulation
crisis. A “neuter before adoption” policy is a solution that is practical,
possible, and healthy.
by Marci Hess
Here are journal references:
The Effect of Prepubertal Castration on the Penile Urethra of the Cat - JAVMA
Vol 160, No 2, Jan 1972, Herron
Longterm coutcome of ganadectomy performed at an early age or traditional age
in cats - JAVMA Vol 217, No 11, Dec 2000, Howe, Boothe, Slater, Hobson, Fossum
Implications of Early Neutering in the Dog & Cat, Seminars in Vet Med
& Surgery, Vol 10, No 1, Feb 95, Bloomberg & Stubbs, University of
Florida
Gonadectomy in immature dogs: Effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral
development - JAVMA Vol 198, No 7, April 91, Salmeria & Bloomberg
ESN is endorsed by the following organizations:
AVMA-American Veterinary Medical Assoc
HSUS, Humane Society of the US
The Ohio State University
FranklinCountyDogs.com
Cat Fanciers Association
Texas A & M
College of Vet Med, Univ of Minnesota
Knox County Humane Society
Massachusetts Soc for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
American Humane Association
Doris Day Animal League
AKC
AVAR (Assoc of Vets for Animal Rights)
The American Animal Hospital Assn
ASPCA
And here is a great 'objection' and 'answer; session with a vet that does ESN:
Comment
Quote from the Dalmatian Club of America - Study now appearing on website
states
For physiological and anatomical considerations that are logically and
medically sound, the development of the os penis is incomplete until about 12
months of age in males. Castration prior to this age impedes the development
of the os penis, and the resulting immature, small os penis size may
contribute to the development of clinically relevant obstructive urinary stone
disease in these animals. This subgroup analysis would be very important to
conduct, if possible, from the survey results as it may support the
recommendation to breeders, owners and others to delay male Dalmatian
castration to one year of age. "
Response from Dr Tracy Land
Castration prior to this age impedes the development of the os penis, and the
resulting immature, small os penis size may contribute to the development of
clinically relevant obstructive urinary stone disease in these animals.
That "may" is pretty telling. I can give you a stack of scientific
studies like a phone book showing no problems. So the questions is do they
have even one study to support their supposition? If they did, wouldn't they
quote it instead of saying "may" - which also means "maybe
not". Where is the study?
And where is the logic? Doesn't intuitively make sense to me that a smaller
bone would cause more of a problem? If the theory is that the bone causes the
stones to block, wouldn't a smaller bone be a good thing? Actually, I don't
think it's the bone that causes the blockage at all, but soft tissue swelling,
though I'd have to consult a urologist to confirm that. Growth plates close at
maturity, which stops the growth of the bone. Dalmatian size dog will close
from ten to sixteen months in most cases. So if we neuter at 6, he's still not
closed. Again - where is the logic (or study) that says six months is any
better than six weeks?
Seems to me another case of someone reaching to support a position that isn't
backed up by the science.
Tracy Land, DVM
Comment from Breeder, November 2007
We do not do pediatric S/N because of the increased risk of osteosarcoma in
large breeds.
Response from Dr Tracy Land
This is an old one. If you actually read & understand these studies, the
only remotely relevant finding is an increased risk of osteosarcoma in
neutered vs unneutered Rottweilers, which are genetically predisposed to
osteosarcoma anyway. The issue of age at sterilization IS NOT ADDRESSED.
Overall, sterilized dogs live longer than those unsterilzied ones. True more
osteosarc in sterilized Rottweilers,
but overall they don't live as long due to deaths from other cancers &
causes.
I'm attaching an excellent article from a famous veterinarian that attempts to
explain some of these specific issues, one that has done a lot of our studies
proving the safety of pediatric S/N. It's a little complex, but is a great
example of how studies can be misinterpreted by those lacking the scientific
background to understand them, and how they can be just plain misquoted to
support a position that otherwise can't really be supported.
Do take the time to try to read it, and stash it away somewhere safe for
future reference.
It isn't as if we who support pediatric spay/neuter choose to ignore any
relevant or even possibly relevant finding.
Of the dozens of studies that will stand up to peer review that have been
done, the ONLY negative finding is a slight increase in urinary incontinence
in female puppies spayed prior to 12 weeks of age. Though the increase is
slight (3%) and the finding contradicted by other studies, we acknowledge it,
attempt to err on the safe side when possible, and fairly weigh the possible
disadvantage against the benefit of NBA (neuter before adoption) programs -
guess what, a few animals that may be incontinent, which is treatable, doesn't
outweigh millions dead. You'll almost invariably find anyone who will argue
that has never spent any time in a kill facility.
Comment from Dalmatian Rescuer November 2007
Dalmatians have a unique uric acid metabolism, with high levels of uric acid
excretion in their urine, which can make kidney and bladder stone formation a
possibility.
Response from Dr Tracy Land
Dals do indeed have that problem. The penis is indeed smaller in dogs
castrated early - BUT - not the urethra, the difference is that the erectile
tissue in the penis (around the urethra) does not develop. The thought process
is logical, but basically flawed in that regard. The studies on cats are 30
years old, going way back to research on the old blocked kitty problem. I
believe University of Florida repeated the study on dogs fifteen years ago
Comment, from a Weimaraner rescue person
99% of pediatric spays have incontinence
Response from Dr Tracy Land
Incontinence - If 99% of early spays were incontinent, we'd have stopped long
ago - that's just absurd. One study showed a 3% increase in the risk of
incontinence if female dogs spayed prior to 3 months, though that finding has
not been the case in several other studies. The significance of a possible 3%
increase in a treatable problem pales in comparison to six million dead
annually due to overpopulation. I personally have done thousands of pediatric
spays, and have NEVER ONCE had one of my pups come back incontinent. I do
frequently treat incontinence in my outpatient clinic, and without exception,
every single patient was spayed at or after six months, or not at all. Who
ever is saying that just has absolutely no clue what they're talking about.
Comment, from Weimaraner Rescue
We also prefer that they are developed hormonally and structurally to their
best advantage.
Response from Dr Tracy Land
1. Hormones? Makes no sense. A weim spayed at six months is not
"hormonally" mature either, so what's the difference? We're
currently collecting mature ovaries for research into an injectable method of
sterilization for dogs at Auburn. They don't want us to collect six month old
ovaries, as they don't yet contain the hormones needed for their research. So
there really is no valid issue there.
2. Structurally - Dogs sterilized early will have slightly delayed closure of
the growth plates, and therefore be a fraction of an inch taller than those
sterilized later. Who cares? I do think this is a valid point for dogs being
shown at conformation, as they will not develop quite the same extent of
secondary sex characteristics - such as breadth of chest or head. But, the
average pet over can't tell that difference, show dogs can't be sterilized
anyway unless someone's cheating, and there is little or no difference between
those spayed at six months or three. So again, logically not a valid issue
there.
Comment from person who adopted rescue dog that was spayed at 8wks
She has too much skin around her pee pee because the early surgery stopped her
maturation of her vaginal area. This causes the skin around it to keep it
covered, therefore keeping it moist. This can lead to bladder infections and
staph, per my vet at XXX (Columbus Ohio Area Vetl Hospital).
There is a host of other things that could come from this. I have also been
told that a female should be at least six months of age before spaying. When I
took her to this vet at an earlier date, the Dr that saw her said that they
don't do spaying at 8 weeks. I have a lot of mixed feelings about this. I
don't understand why this was done at such an early age. I would have taken
her to be spayed when she was six months.
Response from Dr Tracy Land
I can tell you that the problem being described is usually seen in overweight
dogs, and the cause is the obesity, not the age at spay. The cases I have seen
have, with one exception, always been overweight. One was just primary
anatomical problem. I've spayed a lot of puppies, (thousands) and never seen
it as a problem in one of those. Only those spayed at six months or later,
that were too chubby. Puppies spayed prior to six months usually have no
significant difference in the size of the vulva than those spayed at six
months. This is another classic and tragic example of a vet who hasn't done
his/her homework on pediatric spay/neuter, and has no experience in the area,
unjustly criticizing something they don't understand. Research, tons of it,
have never mentioned this a problem finding.
Tracy Land, DVM
Comment -sent to me by a breeder after we began discussing pediatric
spay/neuter.
Kellie,
Here again, maybe for most breeds, but NOT shihtzus ! They have tiny noses,
with tiny openings that don't totally open up until they are about 6 months
old....so it is extremely dangerous for THIS breed especially to have
pediatric s/n. I HAVE read up on it, and I have also called and talked to 22
vets, including Michigan state and Purdue!
They said this is NOT necessary, good LORD girl, a 7 week old pup is not going
to get bred, so it is ONLY COMMON SENSE, to wait a bit! Like I said, 4 months
is adequate....that is how I feel, and its wrong and cruel to spay or neuter
at 6-7 weeks old for a snub nosed dog....ANY snub nose dog.
Sherry, breeder in Michigan
Response from Dr Tracy Land
Some special considerations have to be given to short-nosed breeds during
anesthesia, regardless of their age or size. That said, it just isn't logical
to say that they are at any greater risk at 7 weeks or 7 months or 7 years.
I've done hundreds of short nosed puppies, of various breeds, including many
Shih Tzu's over the years and never had a problem. I have a Japanese Chin
breeder, and a King Charles breeder that regularly bring me their (very
expensive) pups to alter before sale. Can't get much
smaller and shorter nosed. No problem. Have the vets allegedly advising
against pediatric spay/neuter actually done the procedures?
Or are they offering an opinion based on no experience? If they are having
trouble, and I'm not, you've got to wonder about the surgeon
or the protocol. Properly done, there are no problems (coming from someone who
has actually done hundreds).
The younger the dog, the shorter the procedure time, and therefore the shorter
the anesthetic time. Logically, that would render the anesthetic risk lower in
the younger animals.
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View our Labradoodle Puppy Training Slide 1
Adding a doodle to your household can be a wonderful experience,
but the relationship can sour quickly if your new doodle ruins your carpet or
chews your couch. To make your doodle and your household a happier place-I recommend that you
crate train your doodle the moment your bring it home.
It is a dogs natural instinct to seek out a
"den." Your doodle's crate is not a cage or jail. It's
your puppy's own place: its bed or
den, its place to hide special toys or bones and a refuge in times of stress.
Puppies like to sleep in small, close places. That's why they curl up under the
bed or under a chair, or crawl under the back porch. A crate allows you to use this instinct as a training tool.
INTRODUCING THE CRATE
Introduce your doodle to the crate by tossing a treat inside while
the pup is watching. Say "[Name], crate!" and urge the puppy inside.
Let the pup grab the treat and come back out. Repeat the action a couple of
times; later, place the puppy's dinner inside the crate. Let the puppy eat with
the door open, coming and going as it pleases. When the puppy is comfortable
going in and out, toss a treat inside the crate, then close the door after the
pup goes inside. Wait a couple of minutes, then open the door. Gradually
increase the time until the puppy is comfortable with the door being closed. If
your puppy throws a temper tantrum when you close the door, don't let the pup
out until it is quiet. If you let the pup out when it screams, it will have
learned temper tantrums work. Instead, tell the pup, "No!, Quiet!" in
a sharp tome of voice. Put the crate in your bedroom at night so the puppy can
feel your presence and be reassured that your are near. It is eight hours that
the puppy can be near you, even though you are sleeping. If the pup is restless,
you will be able to hear it and take it outside. If the puppy decides it wants
to play, repeat, "No! Quiet!." During
the day, place the crate near people, in the family room or kitchen. Let your
pup see and hear the normal sights and sounds of the household.
CRATES PREVENT PROBLEMS
Doodle puppies don't intentionally get into trouble: It's just that
our belongings are so alluring, at least in a puppy's eyes. Leather shoes and rawhide chews are very
similar to many puppies; in fact, the shoes probably smell more attractive. Many
of the destructive things puppies do can be prevented by using a crate. The
puppy cannot destroy your $100 leather shoes if the pup is crated when not
supervised. The puppy cannot trash the sofa cushions, scatter the garbage or
pull down the drapes if it is confined when you are at work. By preventing these
problems, you will establish good habits. The puppy learns to chew on the toys
you give it, to sleep and to be quiet, rather than learning to be destructive.
SECURITY
A crate provides the puppy with security away from home. If
you board your doodle, send their crate with them. He will thank
you. He will be much more
secure with his familiar place of refuge and smells. Teaching your doodle to ride in
it's crate
in the car may, one day, save its life. Thousands of dogs are injured or killed
annually when they are thrown from cars or trucks. Crating the dog in the car
will also prevent it from interfering with the driver. By bringing a crate when
you travel, your dog can be crated in the motel room and you needn't worry about
it getting into trouble when you go out to dinner.
AS AN ADULT
As your doodle matures, give it more freedom, but if it
does make a mistake, crate it again. The dog must prove its reliability by not
having accidents in the house and by not getting into trouble. Too much freedom
too soon will result in problems. Your dog will still use its crate on its own,
even when full grown. Because the crate is your dog's special place, it will
retreat there when the family is busy and it needs to sleep. Your dog will go
there when it is feeling low or sick. Your dog will hide the bones it wants to
keep away from the new baby or puppy in its crate. And again, it's a safe,
secure place
TYPES OF CRATES
Two types are available. The first type is often
made of heavy molded plastic or fiberglass and is excelent for use on airlines
to transport animals. Plastic crates usually come in two parts, top and bottom,
and are easy to disassemble and clean. Wire crates, which provide good
ventilation, are also available, but they do not provide the privacy and
seclusion puppies need when they retreat to their crates for naps. However, a
cover can be placed over a wire crate at times when privacy is more important
than air circulation.
The crate should be large
enough for the puppy to stand up, stretch, turn around and lie down
comfortably-with a little growing room. Don't get a crate that would fit an
adult St. Bernard for a Springer pup. If the crate is too large, the pup can
relieve itself in a far corner and still have a clean bed. Remember that the
purpose behind using a crate to housetrain the pup is to utilize the pup's
instinct to keep its bed clean. Trade your crate up for a larger crate, as
your doodle grows!
Although Labradoodles are not a recognized breed, there are general
standards that reputable breeders such as Canadoodle Labradoodles try to
maintain.
Tegan Park and Rutland Manor (the two Breeding
and Research Centers for the Labradoodle in Australia) identified the need to
develop uniform coat names for the Labradoodle to alleviate any confusion
surrounding the different types. After an overwhelming response of
suggested names received via Tegan Park's website, new names were
selected. As it is not the 'look' of the coat which distinguishes it from
another coat, but the 'feel', hence the new names: Coat
Type One: Wool Coat
The Wool Coat has the touch and feel of a Poodle Coat, and is
always curly.
It never sheds and is the most preferred for people with
severe dog-related allergies.
The Wool Coat needs to be brushed regularly and needs to be
trimmed or clipped, maybe two times per year.
Coat Type Two: Fleece Coat
The Fleece Coat is a lightly spiralled or loosely curled coat
which is similar to the staples of the fleece of an Angora Goat. The
Fleece Coat may sometimes contain some kemp like fibers (just as in the Angora
Goat) and it is these fibers which may occasionally shed a little although the
base coat will not.
The feel of the Fleece Coat is soft and silky to the touch. It
needs only moderate brushing and should not need to be clipped except for
beneath the ears and perhaps around the feet. Faces can be scissor trimmed
a couple of times each year to keep the eyes clear and a pretty face shape. Some
breeders will continue to work towards the perfecting of the Fleece Coat, and to
breed out the kemp fibers which are present in some of today's dogs.
Up until about eight or nine months of age, the Fleece Coat
requires practically nil attention, but anytime between nine and fourteen months
of age the permanent adult coat comes in. For several weeks thereafter the puppy
coat needs to be brushed thoroughly several times a week with a stiff slicker
brush or rake. This is to drag it out in order to prevent tangling with
the newly growing adult coat. If this is not done, the whole body and legs can
become full of mats which will require shaving off.
Coat Type Three: Hair coat
The Hair Coat has a distinctly different feel and touch to
either of the first two coats. It can be either straight and flat, moderately
long and wispy, with a row of waves along the top of the back, whiskers and
eyebrows on the face and either long or short wispy hairs on the legs. But
whether short or long, the 'feel' of the coat is that of hair, and not of wool
or fleece.
The Hair Coat will always shed. Some heavily and others
moderately. They require almost nil brushing excepting to remove the shedding
hairs. No trimming is needed and no clipping, ever. Hair coat puppies will
often be very fluffy until about eight or nine weeks old when the hairs begin to
sprout through the thick undercoat.
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